Make sure there is standing water in the toilet bowl. Submerging the head of the plunger is ideal, but you need at least enough water to cover the rim of the plunger cup (not just the flange). If there’s anything floating in the toilet bowl, don’t sweat it (that’s why plumbers can charge so much!). Add water to the bowl if necessary.
Put on rubber gloves if you wish. Make sure the flange of the toilet plunger is completely pulled out from the cup. Lower the plunger into the bowl at an angle so the cup fills with as much water as possible. If you go straight down, the cup traps a lot of air, which will compress more than water and reduce the plunging force. Fit the cup over the toilet’s drain hole so the flange is inside the hole and the cup forms a complete seal around the outside of the hole.
Grip the plunger handle in both hands, and push down on the cup forcefully, then pull back up without breaking the cup’s seal around the hole. Repeat the push-pull motion five or six times, then pull the cup off of the hole after the last thrust.
The goal is to create rapidly alternating forces of compression and suction in the toilet drain to loosen the clog. If your pushing seems to be blowing out the side of the cup rather than down into the hole, you don’t have a proper seal. Reposition the cup, and try again.
Repeat the series of plunging motions as needed until the bowl empties by itself. Set the plunger aside.
Maintain some downward pressure on the plunger at all times while plunging, even when letting up a bit on the upstroke. If you let up on the pressure completely, you’ll break the seal around the cup.
Remove the tank lid from the toilet, and locate the round rubber trap door (called the flapper) at the center of the tank bottom; this is your emergency water shutoff if the toilet is still clogged.
Flush the toilet. If it flushes normally, you’re all done, and you can set the lid back on the tank. If you’re not so lucky and the toilet is still clogged and threatens to overflow, reach into the tank and push the flapper down over the hole to stop the flow of water from the tank to the bowl. When the tank stops refilling, plunge the toilet again.
If you can’t clear the clog after several rounds of plunging, you can try clearing it with a toilet auger before finding a plumber. A toilet auger, or a closet auger, is a specialty version of a drain snake designed specifically for toilets. It has a telescoping metal tube with a crank handle on one end and a cable running inside. Insert the cable end (which has a corkscrew tip) into the toilet, and then turn the handle while pushing the cable down through the toilet trap to clear the clog.
In addition to driving through and breaking up a tough clog, the corkscrew tip of the cable can grab onto obstructions in the toilet trap so you can pull them out. This is often required if a sponge or other inappropriate item gets flushed down the toilet and becomes stuck.
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If you’re tired of paying for expensive commercial window cleaners that leave streaks on your mirrors, you can make your own toxic-free cleaner at home. Simply make a solution of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide, spray it on the mirror, and wipe it clean with a sponge.
Shaving cream can also be used. It will not only shine your glass surfaces, but it will also keep your bathroom mirror from steaming up after your next hot shower.
One way to get rid of germs and make your bathtub look brand new again is by using a mixture of 1/2 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of rubbing alcohol, and 1/4 cup of water. Add all the ingredients to 4 quarts of warm water. Spread the mixture evenly over the dirty areas, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then rinse well. You will be amazed at how clean your shower will be.
A standard mouth rinse can make a perfect toilet cleaner. Dissolve your oral rinse or toothpaste in water, apply this mixture onto the dirty surface, wait for 30 minutes, then scrub well with the toilet brush and rinse.
A cotton ball soaked in oxygen bleach will assist you in keeping your tiles extra shiny and free of water spots. For this task, you can also use mouthwash or toothpaste.
Getting rid of rust is easier than it may seem. Simply pour salt over the rusted area, rub it in, and squeeze some lemon juice on top. The lemon juice reacts with the rust to dissolve it from the surface, and the salt absorbs the rust stains. Leave the solution overnight, and wash it off in the morning.
For a clean and dust-free ceiling, use a mixture of 1 part vinegar to 1 part warm water. Dip a mop in the prepared solution, and begin cleaning your ceiling. Please bear in mind that you should wear safety glasses when doing this kind of work.
In a spray bottle, mix together 16 fl oz (500 ml) of all-purpose bleach and 2 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid. Spray this solution over the entire surface of your shower curtain, let it sit for several minutes, then rinse. Your curtain will look new again.
Here are some cool solutions for the bathroom you’ll want to try instantly.
Mirror-cabinets are especially important for small bathrooms where every inch of space matters. It doesn’t create a feeling of tightness, and mirrors that have shelves on the sides can be a perfect option for storing cosmetic items that should be kept in a dark place that we use in front of the mirror.
Such pockets perfectly house everything that can’t be placed on shelves (like brushes, bath puffs, scrapers, and other bath items).
It’s very convenient to have a small garbage bin in the bathroom, but for some reason, many people neglect this idea. Make sure to place the bin in an unnoticeable place — it will let you ditch Q-tips, cotton pads, soap packs, and other small things right then and there instead of carrying these items through the whole house to reach the main garbage bin. And as an extra bonus, this makes it so you won’t have to empty the garbage as often.
This is a stylish and functional way to store things that get lost easily, such as cosmetic items in small packs, hair accessories, and various tubes. Simply put the tray where it’s comfortable for you and you’ll get a very chic-looking interior.
Solid soap that is almost completely finished but that you feel stingy getting rid of can be put in a separate puff in the shape of a mitten. It’s easy to store such a mitten in the bathroom on a hook and can be used as an organizer. Plus, you only need to wet it to wash your body. Of course, only one person can use it to remain hygenic.
This minimalistic device, which is fixed to the wall or any other vertical surface that is comfortable for you, can help you prop the mop up quickly without it always falling down.
Baskets can be of different sizes, from small ones that contain cosmetics to big ones that house various textiles. Baskets are made from materials that are natural and airy, making them a perfect place for storing clean towels.
The base of such a soap dish is fixed on a suction cup, and you can put it on any surface in the bathroom that’s comfortable for you. Thanks to the groove that lets water drain right into the sink, the soap doesn’t stay wet, and the dish itself stays neat-looking. Additionally, it can also be used in the kitchen — you can store a sponge for washing dishes in it.
A small handle can be fixed to the toilet seat, letting you lift and lower it down without having to touch the germ-ridden surface. Thanks to its small size, it’s almost unnoticeable and doesn’t create any discomfort when using the toilet. And you can install this device yourself — you’ll just need some glue and a spoon.
What things from our list would you gladly add to the interior of your bathroom?
]]>Here’s a recipe that can actually divide your life into “before” and “after.”
Hydrogen peroxide is known for treating cuts and wounds and it can actually be a great helper around the house. Due to its anti-fungal and anti-microbial qualities, it destroys bacteria, mildew, and bad odors. It can be used to clean cookware, carpets, and tile; to whiten home textiles and bed linens; and to remove limescale and yellow marks from the sink, bath, and toilet.
Household ammonia is known to be a strong cleaner as it gets rid of grease and oil by breaking down cell proteins. Many tub, floor and window cleaners contain it as an active ingredient. But while it’s a highly effective cleaning agent, it’s poisonous and very dangerous if it comes into contact with the eyes or skin, or if it’s inhaled. That’s why ammonia should never be combined with other chemicals as it can be very harmful.
Household chemicals don’t come cheap, especially in big families as they run out very quickly. So if you don’t want to overpay or use products with complex substances (especially if there are people with allergies in your household), create your own cleaning product! It’s less costly and harmless if you follow the right proportions and safety precautions.
Ingredients:
Method:
Ammonia can be poisonous, so to use it at home, you’ll need to open all the windows, put on a mask and rubber gloves, quickly apply the mixture to the bathtub, sink, or toilet, and leave the room (you can go into another room, a balcony, or outside), and keep other family members and pets away from the bathroom.
After the mixture is washed off thoroughly, it’s always a good idea to ventilate the home well.
What simple cleaning recipes do you use in your household? We’d be happy to hear from you in the comment section below!
]]>To do these critical household products justice, though, you must understand how to properly wash towels, and you should do so more frequently than you probably do, according to a towel expert. Here’s why, as well as how often youshould wash yours.
George Hughes, Founder of organic towel and bedding company Dip & Doze, is clear on the subject of washing towels. ‘Ideally, you should clean your bath and hand towels after every three to four uses’, he explains.
If you suffer for allergies, eczema, or any other skin condition, you should wash yours after every single use. This especially applies to face towels you use to cleanse your face, but equally goes for body towels if your skin is sensitive.
Again, Georges instructions are very clear: if you take your towels outside the home to use in the gym, public swimming pool, and so on, you must wash them after every use. ‘Gym towels should be changed after every use as they come into contact with sweat, airborne bacteria and other contaminants if you use them to wipe down equipment, along with towels used at public swimming baths’, he says. Don’t leave them in the gym bag, either, as this could make them go moldy.
The main thing with beach towels is keeping them separate from your bath towels. George says it is ‘a really good idea to have separate beach and bath towels as well – even if that means packing twice as many – as sand can be hard to remove.’ Pack your beach towels in a separate compartment of your suitcase after your holiday is finished, and wash them on a separate cycle from your bath towels after you get back.
Worried about what all this washing will do to your towels? As long as you wash them separately from your clothes and don’t put them through very hot cycles too often, you needn’t worry. It’s all about choosing the best towels to begin with, George says: ‘The best way to care for your towels is to make a sound investment at the beginning. High quality, 100% organic and Fairtrade cotton is a great way to start.’
We couldn’t agree more – organic towels are more durable and better for the planet.
]]>Brittany Kline
Grout can be difficult to clean. Practically Functional has provided readers with an amazing 2 ingredient bathroom cleaning hack. They have even provided us with a total project time. You need 45 minutes in total – 30 minutes prepping/cleaning and 15 minutes waiting while the grout cleaner goes to work.
I can’t wait to give this cleaning hack a try. After finding this hack I looked at my showerhead. I thought there was no way I would have any grime on mine. To my surprise, this cleaning tip needs to happen as soon as possible in my shower.
Bath toys can become quickly dirty and full of soap scum. With children playing with these toys, you need to make sure you are cleaning them properly. Especially if you are not buying new toys, you are going to want to make sure they are being properly cleaned.
Keep a glass jar near the toilet and make a bunch of these toilet bombs. Throw them in the toilet to clean and deodorize the toilet between cleanings. With only three ingredients, these are super easy to make.
Who knew it has so many benefits besides eating it. Cut the grapefruit in half and use one end to rub over steel. The acid in the juice of the fruit work to polish the steel while leaving an amazing smell. You can enjoy the other half of the grapefruit. So natural!
Marble is another sensitive surface to clean. For this cleaning hack, you are going to need bleach, paper towel, and a cup. Overnight you are going to place a cup over a paper towel soaked with bleach. Family Handyman makes an excellent point. With such a sensitive surface, test a nonvisible area first so you do not discolor your marble in a visible spot.
Baby oil on chrome? Yes! Give it a try. This is definitely a savvy way to go. Baby oil is much cheaper to purchase than a chrome cleaner. Search for baby oil uses and you will find a ton that you will be able to use the extra baby oil for.
I have a bin in my bathroom drawer specifically for these items. They are always falling out and moving on me every time I open the drawer. The idea of the magnet is brilliant!
I do not have a glass door to my shower/bathtub. However, I can see how it would need to be cleaned pretty frequently. With the cleaner used above, you are going to need some microfiber cleaning cloths. These ones from Amazon are the perfect price and they have great reviews. You will be able to use these for many other rooms in your house as well.
We have a tricky drain stopper and we had to search YouTube to see how to get it off. Our drain was draining water so slow and we had to clean it out. We had to use a wire coat hanger to clean out the hair. On Amazon, they have a three-pack of drain snakes for $5.99! Definitely worth the price if you live with females.
Loofahs are another bathroom item that can be gross and filled with germs. Even though we use it to clean ourselves every day, it holds a lot of germs. A diluted bleach solution will solve this for you.
If you need to put some power behind your manpower, no better use than a drill. You will get your tub cleaner and the job will be done much faster. Take off the drill bit attachment and add your cleaning brush. Charge it all up and you will be ready to go.
You’ll need a tube of caulk that’s specifically made for kitchens, bathrooms, or tile, a caulking gun, a few soft cloths, and a scrub brush. You will also need baking soda or bathroom cleaner for the preparation, a scraping tool with a razor blade to take off the old caulk, and some painter’s tape. In addition to the supplies and tools, you’ll also need to ensure you have enough time to let the caulk dry and cure, which takes 30 minutes and 24 hours, respectively. Otherwise, it’s an easy task!
For this project, you’ll need caulk that’s either designated for the bathroom or one that’s classified as ideal for the kitchen. While acrylic latex or silicone compounds prove to be the caulk of choice because of their waterproof qualities, they each have pros and cons. Acrylic latex will need to be replaced sooner than silicone caulk, but it’s also easier to apply and requires less cleanup. On the other hand, silicone doesn’t need to be replaced as often, but is difficult to smooth and is picky about what it adheres to, as per This Old House.
Cleaning the tub’s edge helps you avoid grime and residue while caulking the bathtub. Plus, if you’re going to use painter’s tape as a guide, a clean area guarantees its adhesiveness. Thus, you should scrub and rinse the part of the tub where the tub deck meets the tile. If you’re still concerned about mold, you can also use bleach or white vinegar and a lint-free cloth to wipe this area after you’ve removed the old caulk, as per Apartment Therapy. Once that’s complete, allow the seam to dry completely before applying the caulk.
Sometimes a residual film will be leftover from the old caulk, but you can easily wash that away. You can use a damp cloth and baking soda to rub off the residue. Afterward, you’ll need to wipe the baking soda away with a clean, damp cloth and allow the area to dry completely. According to This Old House, if you’re having a hard time cleaning the dust and residue on the tub, you can scrub the area with rubbing alcohol. While completing this step, you’ll need to ensure there is adequate air circulation in the room.
According to This Old House, you should choose a tool that best suits your comfort level and your project. If you’re comfortable using a sharp blade, then a scraper with a razor blade serves the purpose. Conversely, if you prefer not to use a sharp instrument, you can find other caulking removal tools at your local hardware store. However, using a blunter tool might prolong the length of the project. The razor works more effectively, but you have to watch the angle of the blade so that you avoid scraping your tub.
According to This Old House, you’ll need to take out the old caulk to ensure the new caulk seals properly. To remove the caulk, plug the drain and drape a drop cloth over your tub to catch any debris. Then, use a razor cutting tool such as a box cutter or putty knife to start slicing into the seam area between the tub and tile. As you cut, hold the razor flat to ensure you don’t scratch the tub. Making one continuous slice, as opposed to digging it out, removes the caulk more easily.
Not all caulking guns are created equally. Bob Vila notes that a quality gun will have features like a smooth rod, a sturdy plunger, and a revolving frame that allows you to caulk inside corners without stopping. You’ll also need to check the label for the thrust ratio, which is the correlation between the force you exert on the trigger and the amount of force given off by the plunger. A low thrust ratio works well for light projects, such as caulking the bathtub, while a higher thrust ratio is more suited for bigger projects, like working with concrete.
Another easy tip for caulking the bathtub involves applying low-level heat to the tube before applying the caulk. Warm up the tube by allowing it to sit in warm water or by holding it in your hands. Either one of these options will raise the caulk’s temperature, which will allow it to flow out of the nozzle more easily, as noted by The Spruce. This will create a neat caulk line.
This next tip might seem more labor-intensive, but it will save you time because you won’t have to clean off any extra caulk when you’re finished. You can use painter’s tape to block off the area around the seam that you’re going to caulk, limiting the mess caused by the lining. Lifehacker recommends applying one strip along the tiled wall and another strip on the tub just below the seam. Once you’ve caulked the bathtub, wait a few minutes and then carefully remove the tape.
As mentioned in This Old House, you should cut the tip of the nozzle at a 45-degree angle. This slanted opening allows you to get into the small space of the seam while maintaining control of the caulk’s flow. Also, you can cut just below the tip of the nozzle to create a slow-moving flow for a tight space. If your seam requires more caulk to fill the gap, you can cut further down the nozzle to create a thicker caulk seam.
According to This Old House, you can control your caulking gun by keeping it level. If you move the handle of your gun, you risk getting more caulk on the tape than on the seam. This controlled action becomes more important when caulking the corners. In fact, corners work best as stopping points for your bead. If you try to continue to the next side, you might accidentally tilt your caulking gun and leave an uneven amount of caulk in the corner or miss it altogether.
Another critical aspect of caulking the bathtub is to make one continuous nonstop line on each side, per This Old House. Ideally, you shouldn’t have any bumps or lumps along the sides of your tub. Any soap residue or old caulking should’ve been removed to avoid having to stop, or worse, go into reverse with your caulking gun. By applying a continuous, smooth bead, you’ll have an even line and a completely sealed seam.
Once in a while, you might run into a larger gap that requires a more substantial filling. Tempting as it may be, you can’t use caulk to fill this gap. The caulk would take longer to dry, and that much excess product can’t guarantee a solid seam closure. According to Bob Vila, the answer to this dilemma is to stuff a backer rod to fill the space and then caulk over it.
What if you have the opposite problem, and the seam is too small? The Spruce recommends using a small squeeze tube for moments like that. The tube’s nozzle is shaped similarly to a larger tube of caulk. Thus, cutting close to the tip would give you a thin and easy-to-control caulk line. Just like the other size, you’ll also need to maintain steady pressure and apply a smooth, continuous bead.
Out of all of the tips, this one proves to be vital. The caulk has to thoroughly dry before anyone uses the tub. In most cases, the caulk has to dry for 30 minutes, as mentioned in This Old House. While some folks might feel secure using the shower after that allotted drying time, you might want to consider waiting longer. Caulk requires a whole 24 hours to cure completely, so it’s better to wait a full day before exposing the area to moisture.
This next tip sounds odd, but it works well. Once you’ve caulked the bathtub, Bob Vila recommends filling it with water and letting it sit for 24 hours while the caulk cures. Basically, you’re adding weight to the structure, which causes the caulk to stretch, keeping it from shifting.
Ultimately, this project will take part of a weekend due to its curing time. However, the end result is a clean finish that brightens up your bathroom. Just wait until you see the difference once the job is complete.
]]>Storing towels when they’re still damp is a bad idea in any room of the house. But if you do it in the bathroom, it’s especially bad as it’s a very humid room. It’s advised to dry towels, just after using them, in the sun. Then you can hang them again in the bathroom when they’re a bit dry, but it’s better if you keep them somewhere even drier. In addition, it’s also very important to wash them frequently and to hang them instead of folding them when storing them.
The lemon is one of your best friends when it comes to cleaning and removing bad smells. Besides leaving a pleasant aroma and neutralizing bad odors, it’s a powerful natural cleaner. These properties come from the high levels of citric acid it contains. Ideally, the way you should use lemon is by rubbing it all over your bathroom after cleaning things with your everyday household detergent. This way, its effect will last longer on surfaces and it will get the job done.
Aromatic oils are great allies when it comes to perfuming your home and avoiding bad smells. Clearly, these also apply to your bathroom. The key to using aromatic oils in this particular room is to soak a cotton ball in baby oil — or any other essential oil of your choice — and strategically place it around the bathroom. For example, you can place one inside the wastebasket before putting a liner in it so that every time you open it, the whole room will be filled with a nice aroma. Another good place is in the toilet paper roll or the mug or glass in which you keep your toothbrush.
Here’s another good hack to ensure that your towels always smell good, especially those that you use most often (like hand towels and such). Since these towels are constantly exposed to bad smells and bacteria from your skin, you can spray a mixture of water and fabric softener on them. A mix of water, baking soda, and fabric softener can also be used as a DIY room freshener.
Another household cleaning product we can always rely on is baking soda. Baking soda is already well known for getting rid of even the nastiest and toughest odors. Ideally, you should use it in your cleaning routine by combining it with boiling water. You can then use the resulting mix by pouring it onto surfaces you want to clean. Let it sit for a while before removing it. If you really want it to go a long way, you can combine this method with the cleaning suggestions from point 2.
Despite what many people believe, the toilet brush is not sentenced to be forever nasty and smelly. On the contrary, it can actually become a great way to make your bathroom smell pleasant. In fact, one of the top-secret and most effective hacks hotel owners use is to scent their toilet brushes. Yep, you read that right, they scent the toilet brush. After finishing your cleaning session, it’s recommended to add a few drops of essential oil to the brush so that it evaporates, little by little, while leaving a pleasant scent behind.
In addition to all the products available to make the water running through the toilet fresher, there is also a little tip you can use to make it extra aromatic. Just add a little detergent (that has a pleasant scent, of course) to the water that will be released once you press the handle down to flush. That way, it will release a pleasant and vibrant scent that will linger in the air for a long time.
For some time now, making homemade air fresheners has become a sort of trend that many people decided to embrace, mainly because of how practical and inexpensive the whole idea is compared to buying traditional products. Making a homemade air freshener is actually quite simple. The only things you’ll need are a nice glass bottle, sticks, water, alcohol, and your favorite essential oils. If you have not yet decided which oil you like most, we’ve made a short list of the most popular oils that people typically use to add a scent to their homes.
In addition to all of the above, the simplest and healthiest hack of all is the most obvious one: allow air to circulate through the bathroom. Ventilating the room will allow any bad odors to flow out. It is recommended for you to open the windows every day for at least 15 minutes, which according to electric companies, should be enough to make sure fresh air comes in without you having to spend too much energy reheating the place during the winter months, for example. Not only will you breathe in better air, but any viruses or bacteria that may have accumulated since the last time you ventilated the place will also be gone.
A very important thing to take into account when thinking about bathroom scents is the choice of soap you use. Depending on what your preferences are, you might choose to use an unscented soap or a combination of different scented soaps. In any case, what’s clear is that the scent they give off will affect the smell of the room in general. If what you want to achieve is a space with a pleasant fragrance, choose scented soaps, especially if they’re going to be exposed, like on the sink, for example.
Keep reading to learn how to clean a shower, including those made from fiberglass, tile, and stone. We’ll also walk you through how to clean the showerhead, doors, grout, and more.
Hint: The best time to deep-clean your shower is right after you use it. The surface is already wet from your shower, and the steamy temperature has loosened dirt, making your job easier. Get a sparkling shower with minimal scrubbing using these easy cleaning tips.
Showers with ceramic or porcelain tiles are durable and low-maintenance, but the grout between tiles can be a magnet for grime and mildew. Spray shower tiles with a tile cleaner or a mixture of equal parts vinegar and dish soap. Wait several minutes to allow the cleaning solution to break up soap scum and hard water deposits, then scrub with a soft-bristled brush and rinse well. Remove excess water from the surface with a squeegee or towel.
To clean grout in the shower, apply a mixture of two parts baking soda with one part vinegar using a grout brush or an old toothbrush. After about five minutes, scrub the grout lines and rinse clean.
Showers made from fiberglass or acrylic are popular in many homes because they’re relatively inexpensive and easy to install. This type of shower is also fairly easy to keep clean with a few household ingredients. When cleaning a fiberglass shower, avoid using abrasive scrubbing tools that could scratch the surface.
After removing all shower accessories and bottles, spray the entire area with a shower cleaner. Don’t forget the hardware as well! Soap scum easily builds up on shower faucets. Use a soft-bristled brush to clean around faucets and in corners.
To remove grime from the shower floor, sprinkle the area with baking soda while it’s still wet with the vinegar-dish soap solution. Let sit for about 10 minutes, then gently scrub with a soft-bristled brush. Rinse the entire shower with water, and wipe away excess water with a squeegee or towel to prevent water spots.
Stone showers, including those made from granite, marble, travertine, and other natural stone, require special cleaning methods as the material’s permeability makes it vulnerable to scratches and stains. Never use harsh tile cleaners or acidic ingredients like vinegar or lemon juice, as these can damage the stone’s surface. Instead, use cleaning products specifically designed for your type of stone or a small amount of mild dish soap mixed with water. Gently buff using a sponge or microfiber cloth, then rinse clean and dry immediately with a soft towel. You should also wipe your stone shower dry after each use. Polish the surface weekly and cover it with a stone sealer twice a year.
To make glass shower doors gleam, warm some distilled white vinegar in the microwave and mix it with an equal proportion of dish soap. Pour your DIY glass cleaner into a spray bottle and coat both sides of the doors. After about 30 minutes, use a damp sponge and clean water to wipe away the cleaning solution and dry with a microfiber cloth. If you’re worried about damaging surrounding stone surfaces, swap the vinegar solution for a mixture of baking soda and dish soap. Apply the paste to the glass shower doors and gently scrub using a non-scratch sponge. Finish by cleaning the shower door track with a soft toothbrush and gentle dishwashing liquid. Rinse well.
You can get rid of mineral deposits and buildup from your showerhead without even removing it. Simply fill a plastic bag with distilled white vinegar, slip it over the showerhead, and secure with a rubber band. Wait about one hour before removing the bag and turning on the water to flush. Dry and polish the showerhead with a soft cloth. Repeat this process about once a month to keep your showerhead free from buildup.
Fix a slow-moving shower drain with the help of a wire hanger and a few household ingredients. Start by removing the drain’s cover and soaking it in white vinegar to remove soapy residue. Use pliers to straighten out a wire hanger and make a hook at one end. Carefully lower the wire into the drain and use the hooked end to pull out the clog, repeating as needed until the drain is clear. Run hot water down the drain to flush out any remaining buildup.
Shower curtains and liners can harbor dust, germs, and mold or mildew, but they’re simple to clean. Most can be machine-washed; check the instructions on the care tag to make sure. Remove the rings or clips and toss the curtain and liner in the washer on a gentle cycle in warm water. Rehang and let air-dry.
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